At long last, we're back!
Today's subject will be the pleasure of taking afternoon tea...in London no doubt, at the lovely Fortnum & Mason Department Store, St. James' restaurant. I'd been wanting to go there for a long time, but on the last trip to London did not make a reservation. And they just won't seat you without one, so I missed out. On this trip, I was certain to make a reservation and I arrived promptly dressed "smart casual" as the website suggested.
The dining room itself is nothing special. Low ceilings, worn carpet and furniture...but it's an old department store and I wasn't expecting anything chic or particularly over the top fancy but it still lends itself to an atmosphere of quiet conversation and exceptional table manners. You check your coat and then are seated at a table completely set with silverware and starched white linens. A pianist plays love songs & show tunes in the background. You're provided with a menu so that you can select your choice of teas...I go for what I'm most used to, English Breakfast to start and then a pot of Royal Blend later. Yes, two pots when it was all said and done. Whew!
Out comes the pot in the signature F&M china pattern (Tiffany blue and you all know that's my favorite color!) along with the strainer, sugar cubes and milk. It was by far, the best cup of hot tea I've ever had in my life--from what I understand it's 210 degrees to brew the perfect cup but whatever it is, it is clearly their core competency as it was perfect. Not too hot to burn the tongue, but hot enough to soothe and relax. Not too strong, nor too weak. I loved the sugar cube touch--I'm one of those people that keeps these in the house "for company." I kept repeating in my head "one lump or two."
Next come three small canapes...A savory cheese like tart and a couple of items I didn't eat as they looked like liver or fish--two things I just can't do.
Then the three tiered server comes out (I'm not sure I know what these are called, I should look it up). Bottom tier: Finger sandwiches. Chicken Salad, Salmon and the ubiquitous tea sandwich staple - Cucumber. I skip the salmon but the chicken salad was exceptional as it was served on a hearty grain sort of bread. Then the scones! This was the part I had most been longing to experience. One plain scone, one dotted with dried fruits complete with clotted cream and two jams--apricot and strawberry. I enjoyed every morsel. And then started to think how incredibly relaxing and enjoyable this event was. I was alone, so I didn't have to entertain conversation. I literally felt stress melt away. Also, the service by American standards was incredibly slow. It seemingly took forever and I was there almost two hours. The longer the better. I felt myself soaking in the atmosphere wondering why on earth I can't seem to recreate this same experience back home? Oh yeah, the three year old.
Now to the desserts. After the scones which I slathered with so much clotted cream and jam, the desserts were just not that interesting to me. After all, this is a lot of food that was originally concepted to be a pre-dinner snack. The plate consisted of a Madeline (delicious!), a ginger cake (not to my taste), a fudge tart and a linzer tart (both good) and a raspberry/lemon type cake (too tart).
Around me, there were all sorts of people. Two men that appeared to be a couple, another table of men that appeared to be tourists and not coupled at all, an English woman and her young daughter, husbands and wives, etc. And one person like me, experiencing it all alone. She was Asian. I was wondering if she was savoring the serenity of this experience like I was.
The cost was 34 pounds (about $50 US) but it's a lot of food and they even offered seconds which shocked me. I did note that the table of men who appeared to be tourists did take advantage of seconds. I was about to pop and just couldn't imagine more carbs although I did entertain the thought of stuffing a few extra scones in my purse. (Don't worry, I didn't.)
My guide in London said that the Ritz was "the" place to really take tea and a local mentioned the Savoy. Next time. Cheers!
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